Fiesta Duratec Hillclimber

[grahamb]

I didn't want to sacrifice the coffee cup holder in the floor LOL

[CNHSS1]

sent you an email Graham

[grahamb]

Originally Posted by CNHSS1

sent you an email Graham

Got it thanks Craig. Will digest it later. Liking the 1948 reference though, very apt.

[CNHSS1]

tee hee

[grahamb]

This is what one of the guys I know, who's handy with photoshop, has come up with.

I like it, but I dont like to potential weight increase from carrying all that GRP around.

[CNHSS1]

10-15kgs i reckon.
no bacon butties during practice, trip to the loo before timed runs and helium in the tyres and youre back to where you started

remember you can remove the dagenham-spec tin from behind the grp additions too which will help redress the additional weight or easily make up a one piece flip front end and lose the steel from the nose altoghether?

losing window rubbers and flush bonding the windows (im assuming you dont still have original glass in there) helps lose a chunk of weight (OEM rubbers are beefy) and also removes another protrubance to the airflow.

Also with aero additions, think of it as adding performance or cornering ability, then any weight gain that you have to take doesnt matter

reduction in drag alone at high speed circuit such as castle combe or Aintree across finish would be noticeable in trap speeds over the Ford std profile.

Cornering improvements where the car normally gets lairy will see you keeping it nailed, a bit like going from std to 1B rubber or 1Bs to slicks.

[grahamb]

Windows are plastic, but the windscreen isn't. And I do need to revert to bonded in windows, as the rubbers are all standard spec 'XR2'. Any advice on how to stick the windows in will be listened to. Wouldn't want anything 'popping' out at high speed. Photos of window installs would be appreciated. Aero package isn't highest priority at the moment.

Not running out of money, and getting it finished prior to Croft is. 8-)

Oh mysterious benefactor standing in the wings, please come forward with your cheque book! x-)

More soldering, sleeving and heatshrinking last night. Just need to run the wires in for the wiper motor and the brake light switch tonight.

[CNHSS1]

ive always used 25mm wide double sided 3mm black foam tape, known as servo tape or SLSTAB in the model car/aircraft industry (SLSTAB=sticks like sh*t to a blanket). Normally paint the inside edge surround of the polycarbonate window to give a 'rubber-look' (like they do on all modern car windows these days), this hides the servo tape from view outside. Be careful what paints you use, as most solvents attack polycarbonate or just dont stick at all. Best stuff to use is from a model shop, brand name Pactra, and chemically adheres to the polycarbonate. I then add a few 4mm csk bolts through the polycarb (CSK keeps the profile flush) and through the panel it fits into. Its never going to move!! Others use similar method but use Sikaflex instead on dbl sided tape. Its a swine to remove though, whereas a scalpel between the window and panel will slice the tape and remove easily enough. Some of our guys use black number plate bolts only but they arent flush fit so dont look as nice.

[grahamb]

Originally Posted by CNHSS1

ive always used 25mm wide double sided 3mm black foam tape, known as servo tape or SLSTAB in the model car/aircraft industry

Like this?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/12mm-x-5M-Doub...16049001r36865

[CNHSS1]

yes thats the sort of stuff
the black stuff is the best as the foam between the two sticky surfaces is much better than the white foam type. It doesnt go round bends particularly well or gap-fill on really uneven surfaces. I normally lay it in strips onto one surface (usually the panel) and then trim to shape with a scalpel. If you do it the other way on the window, you risk scoring the polycarbonate. Leave the backing on the one side and do a 'dry run' for fitment, checking positioning and fitment. when your happy peel off the backing and carefully fit in place. If you c*ck it up, you find why its affectionately known as SLSTAB because it wont allow re-positioning. Ideally tape the window in place with masking tape so that the weight of the window isnt pulling on the tape and leave for 12hrs plus to 'cure'.

you can then drill holes for CSK nuts and bolts if you wish, although to be honest they will only be there for your peace of mind, the strength of the joint is incredible!

HTH
CNH