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#21
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I suggest that you would be far better using 1.5mm steel. Remember that it will probably them area around the mounting bolt holes that tears away first. Having looked at the 'drawing' (oh how I wish I could do that) and seen the set up, would it be in order to just have the area up to the top of the push rod encased, but low enough so that it can be seen and yet be contained if something went wrong. Would it work if you simply had a triangular steel plate in that corner and over the pushrod with the hole just large enough for the arm to work, because I think if that is going to cause trouble it will bend before it gets to the rod end.....
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#22
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> Having looked at the 'drawing' (oh how I wish I could do that).
My car is stored remote from where I live, so I have to do most things without the car, taking pictures and working from that is the only thing that works for me. I did this on a free draving program called the gimp - using paths if you googled that you would find tutorials - works well enough to allow me to have a good plan of work when I do go to the car . . . no real measurements - just developing ideas. |
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#23
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Stick to the back of the fag packet, redturner
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#24
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This is the sort of thing I'm thinking about ie small as possible and leaving the bolt exposed. Any thoughts / comments?
C
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Do gadgets make you go any faster...? |
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#25
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That will be suffice+ if it had small fold on floor area it could be rivited and bonded, i reckn aluminium 14swg (2mm) max thickness,
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#26
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That's pretty much the way I was thinking Clive. How are you going to fix it in place?
The front shaped bit I would do as Jo suggests but bolt it through the floor not rivet for ease of removal. The rear part could be made from steel and welded in place as it seems to me that you can still get at the joint and also would provide maximum protection as I reckon the wisbone is more likely to intrude backwards! What do you reckon. |
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#27
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re
Those look ideal, and very little chance of hitting you....
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#28
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This is the current thinking chaps - see attached. I've added flanges to enable rivs / bolts where required. The tricky bit is to make the front panel removable and find some way of attaching the top section. My thinking so far is to have a couple of tabs on the front plate which go through holes in the back plate and curl upward around the small diameter diagonal chassis brace / tube (which also holds the top wishbone mount). A bit of a fiddle but should make it strong enough not to pull out in a shunt. Also, means the back plate can be steel and be welded (most likely to take an impact in this direction) whilst the front section can be 2mm ally for lightness.
I've spent a lot of time today printing and cutting bits of card but the attached templates aren't quite right yet. The compound angles are a bugger. I'll have another play over the next few days and hopefully nail it. I'd be happy to email the powerpoint slides to anyone who wants them. All you have to do is print them full size and there are your templates complete with bend lines. job done! Does someone else fancy doing the damper and push rod shields (please)? C
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Do gadgets make you go any faster...? |
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#29
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The thing is the dampers and rockers etc are actually attached to the outside of the chassis on the OMS and therefore not technically in the cockpit. . . . ?
and I'm not sure that the damper shields wouldn't be more dangerous than the dampers! |
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#30
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I had this message from SO in late November after I emailed him to ask what the latest situation was.
BodyI think the msa are changing the wording so you should be ok as you are. Will let you know when I know more. I am not sure that the MSA are about to change the blue book, we all have the latest one now and it reads the same. Being one who could not\possible make these sort of things myself, £50 - £100 for a kit that will improve my safety and satisfy the regulations is a small cost. Add me to the list of potential customers should this kit become available. Steve |
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