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  #11  
Old 09-01-18, 09:33
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DaveK DaveK is offline
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Valvoline VR1 mineral 20w50
Kendall 20w50 mineral

I've used both in a 1600 busa to good effect
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  #12  
Old 09-01-18, 10:41
Rob Way Rob Way is offline
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Any good mineral oil will do the job, as long as the grade is correct.

Synthetic oil runs off the bores too quickly and will result in excessive wear initially and glaze the bores resulting in poor compression.

the tricky bit is running in Cams and rings at the same time as they both require different methods.

Cams require constant revs for a long period to harden the lobes.

rings require 3/4 throttle up to 3/4 revs, then let it overrun all under load (don't do this in the garage!) repeat. This process gets the air behind the rings and pushes them into the bores sealing it better.

Do this for about 20 mins at a time for 3-4 times then change the oil and put synthetic in.

If you have new cams, i would stick the old cams in, run in the rings and then swap the cams and run in the cams.
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  #13  
Old 09-01-18, 11:49
AshM AshM is offline
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I'm not looking to start a debate or get into an argument.

If you pick a mineral oil make sure its specifically designed for bike engines.

For what its worth I'm responsible for supplying a lot of race engines and they only use the specified fully synthetic oil from the start. The manufacturer has vastly more experience of testing and specifying oil and anything else is an unknown.

I use the recommended Suzuki F/S from the start.
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  #14  
Old 09-01-18, 12:39
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AllanMcD AllanMcD is offline
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I am with Ash on this Suzuki know about there engines.
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  #15  
Old 09-01-18, 13:45
asklepios asklepios is offline
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Yep these matters are always ripe for opinion. Mine favours Rob W, as having a logical argument. I support it with the common experience of Audi owners including myself who got very poor ring bed in with high grade synthetic oil. When my engine (Suzi) , returns I will run in on dyno with mineral and then replace with synthetic. But just my opinion.....

Wholeheartedly agree with Ash that should be for bike, as sharing engine with gearbox oil.

Last edited by asklepios; 09-01-18 at 14:28. Reason: spelling
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  #16  
Old 09-01-18, 13:58
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Useage is much more important than oil type / grade, particularly with nikasil plating. As Rob described, lots of high cylinder pressure (positive and negative) events at mid RPM and don't leave it idling for long periods. Some engine builders even go as far as recommending 'just rag it from the start' as it's less likely to cause issues than easy running is.

As for oil type... Go for something cheap, make sure you don't get it too hot and change it after running in!
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  #17  
Old 09-01-18, 16:31
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rwd rules rwd rules is online now
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Cheers for the replies

Tim
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  #18  
Old 11-01-18, 19:10
martin1 martin1 is offline
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Some good reading here http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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